Chasing Ghosts

icelandic musician laufey

RUMOURS “Not a dry eye in sight, I tell ya,” Ísleifur Þórhallsson proclaims, standing near the ticket desk inside the Harpa Music and Conference Hall in Reykjavík. “Shoulda seen it!” He’s referring to the poignancy of last night’s Laufey concert, the first of three at Harpa. The final concert – added this January due to high […]

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That Fat Is Just Melting Off You, Ladies!

Helga Páley Friðþjófsdóttir

Bergþóra Snæbjörnsdóttir (b. 1985) lives and works in Reykjavík, Iceland. She made her literary debut in 2011 with Daloon Days, a collection of poetry. Her latest novel is Dust – Cult of the Good Looking, which came out in October 2023 to critical acclaim. It received the Icelandic Booksellers’ Prize and was one of the best-selling […]

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Unearthing Spirit

Antonía Berg, Icelandic ceramicist

“Ceramics and clay are things that have been with humans since the beginning of time,” Antonía Berg casually explains to me as we sit in her studio Flæði, located in Reykjavík’s creative hub hafnar.haus. According to many religions and folk beliefs around the world, clay had another, even more pivotal role: it was the origin of human […]

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To Thrive in Chaos

Entering Gallerí Kannski for the Brokat Films exhibition Horseplay, the very first thing that greets you is the smell of fresh hay. Round the corner to the exhibition space itself, and you immediately see why: the entire space, about the size of a modest living room, is covered in it.Next, it’s the music. A pounding, […]

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Out of Their Shell

aurora abalone reykjanes

The Reykjanes peninsula is barren, even for Iceland. About two-thirds of it is covered by lava fields, nary a tree to be seen. The skyline stretches flatly in most directions, the mountains more modest than elsewhere in the country. The peninsula juts west into the North Atlantic, first in line to receive the low fronts […]

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The Patchwork of Progress

actress ebba katrín finnsdóttir

Resilience Imagine you’re a young woman struggling with addiction. You’ve lost custody over your toddler daughter, and you’re awaiting a court hearing to determine the future of your guardianship. In order to regain custody, social services – against your wishes – have enrolled you at Hússtjórnarskólinn: The School of Home Economics in Reykjavík, founded in 1942 […]

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Goodbye to the Grind

kaffi valeria kirkjufell grundarfjörður

The oldest known evidence of coffee in Iceland is a letter that Lárus Gottrup, a lawyer in Þingeyri, wrote to Árni Magnússon, a professor and manuscript collector, on November 16, 1703. They had spoken at the Alþingi (national Parliament meeting) that summer, and Árni was upset that his friend had forgotten to send him the […]

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The Centre Can Hold

Einar Þorsteinsson mayor of reykjavík

“My approach to politics is based on the concept of “public service,” says Einar Þorsteinsson, the new mayor of Reykjavík. “The people who enter politics should be there to serve the public.”Already a household name as a TV personality, Einar was primed for the spotlight before making the move into politics. The 45-year-old Kópavogur-born father […]

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The Heath

seyðisfjörður jessica auer

Jessica Auer is a Canadian photographer and filmmaker. Through her work, she examines our social, political, and aesthetic attitudes towards places, including historical sites, tourist destinations, and small communities. Jessica received her MFA from Concordia University in Montréal, where she teaches part-time. While in Iceland, Jessica runs Ströndin Studio, an educational and experimental centre for […]

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Searching for Grettir

fagraskógarfjall william morris

On July 17, 1871, the English poet and artisan William Morris set out from Reykjavík on horseback with three companions, two guides, and fourteen ponies on the first leg of a six-week journey through the heart of western Iceland. In the age of steamships, locomotives, and the telegraph, this mode of travel was medieval by […]

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