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Culture

The Right to Bear Arms

I’m sitting in a hotel lobby, scribbling some last-minute notes in my notebook before the interview. I look up and notice Guðmundur Felix Grétarsson entering so I raise a hand to let him know I’m here. He waves back, and I get up to greet him. He shakes my hand, and I introduce myself before he points to a small room where we can chat undisturbed. Nothing about this exchange feels remarkable to me, but Guðmundur Felix has a different perspective.

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Culture

Home cook

“We serve cod skin as snacks. The cod skin is salted, dried, and popped, sprinkled with angelica.” Up. Down. Up again. A fleeting moment of calm at the highest point. Down again, tourists whooping as the boat rolls in the waves. I, on the other hand, wasn’t enjoying that lurching feeling in my stomach as […]

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Culture

Where there’s fire

“There is a whole range of events that might occur before, during, and after an eruption.” Dr. Sara Barsotti is the co-ordinator of Volcanic Hazards and operational geophysical monitoring at the IMO The eruptions on the Reykanes peninsula in 2021 and 2022 once again propelled Iceland’s volcanoes into the global consciousness. The last time this happened […]

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Culture

I will dance again

“I thought I was Mother Mary, I thought I could save the world. It was terrible.” The house in HveragerðiElísabet is already waiting for me as I pull into the parking space of her row house in Hveragerði. As I enter her new home, I offer to take off my shoes. But Elísabet instead ushers me to her […]

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Culture

Love, Bríet

“Is this the smallest stage in the world? Who’s trying to save money here?”  THE BUS RIDE For the first time in what felt like a long time, I was free. No obligation to stay inside, to put the kids to bed, to return home before some vaguely appointed hour – for it was understood that […]

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iceland green energy
Business

Electric Motion

Electric vehicles (EVs) are on the rise in Iceland. In 2021 alone, 58% of all cars sold were EVs; today, more than 13% of the country’s total number of passenger vehicles are at least partly electric. Around the globe, the benefits of electric vehicles are being embraced as both environmentally and financially preferable for consumers […]

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björk fossora album 2022
Culture

Björk

“This is my mushroom album.”  What do you when you’re forced to spend time at home for three years? When your social circle shrinks to ten

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basketball iceland
Features

Playing Ball

“Let’s try to keep the interview as short as possible.” A stressed-out looking man has set a tight timeframe for this interview and hurriedly gestures to Tryggvi Snær Hlinason to have a seat. He’s not a particularly short man, but in this crowd, we all look tiny.Iceland’s national basketball team has just finished warming up […]

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iceland parks
Features

In the Rangers’ Realm

What does a ranger do, exactly? According to the tan and charmingly scruffy specimen sitting opposite me at a cafe in the city centre, just back from the mountains, the title is self-explanatory. “It’s a job in environment protection. That’s what the Icelandic word for ranger, landvörður, means. We’re protecting the land; we’re its guardians.” […]

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Culture

One Night in Gufunes

Geoffrey SkywalkerGeoffrey “Skywalker” pulls up in a Hertz moving truck in front of the FÚSK warehouse in East Reykjavík. He’s dressed in skinny jeans and white sneakers, wearing a black, longsleeved shirt featuring an ornery-seeming Rottweiler. (He’s a dog person.)A fixture of the hip-hop scene in Iceland since he was younger, Geoffrey hustled his way […]

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