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reykjavík marathon
Features

Rosé and 10K (at the Reykjavík Marathon)

It was a season of debauchery. A season of cocktail-filled nights and subpar parenting.A season of good-natured rationalisation.“The good thing about drinking while raising two young boys,” I observed, “is that I have four hands. Sometimes six.”I was in Surrey when I made that observation. Surrey in English means Sorry – in reference to how insufferably […]

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motorsports iceland
Magazine

Mud, Sweat, and Gears

The motorsport Formula Offroad began in Iceland in the 1960s. The history of the sport is traced to rescue teams, who in an effort to generate additional funding for their chapters, began showcasing their 4×4 trucks navigating challenging Icelandic terrain. And what started as a demonstration evolved into a competitive endeavour among teams, with custom-built […]

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reykjanes eruption
Features

Live, Laugh, Lava

For the third year in a row, there’s a volcanic eruption on the Reykjanes peninsula, only a stone’s throw away from the city centre. This eruption marks a pattern, with around 300 days between eruptions, geologists’ predictions of a new eruption phase for the long-dormant volcano system seem to be coming to fruition. For visitors […]

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true crime iceland
Features

Borrowed Crime

The sensationalisation of tragedy In 2018, the New York Times published an essay by 17-year-old Rachel Chestnut, one of the winners of the magazine’s student editorial contest. Her essay – entitled Is True Crime as Entertainment Morally Defensible? – noted that “real life acts of violence” had long been masqueraded before the public, whether as […]

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whaling in iceland
Features

Sea Change

Last spring, journalists and activists gathered in a quiet fjord an hour’s drive north of Reykjavík. There was a small harbour, but no fishermen bringing in the day’s catch. For what these guys were fishing, they needed a bigger boat. The whaling ships of Hvalur were preparing for a season of fin whale hunting, planning […]

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mugison iceland music
Culture

Mugi-zen

It’s the first day of July and when the photographer picks me up, it’s pouring rain. Summer has yet to make an appearance in Reykjavík, or in most of Iceland for that matter. We head north out of the city, bracing ourselves for a three-hour drive to the Vatnsnes peninsula, where we’re attending an outdoor […]

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farmhouse iceland
Culture

Turf and Rescue

Austur-Meðalholt Hannes Lárusson grew up in a cluster of turf houses on the farmstead Austur-Meðalholt in Southwest Iceland.His ancestors moved there around 1850. The houses they constructed were made with the remnants of the land’s pre-existing houses, which slouched near the marshes when they arrived. The history of the farmstead stretches nearly as far back […]

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oystercatcher reykjanes
Features

To Catch an Oystercatcher

Under the regular ascent and descent of Keflavík jet traffic, out past the old American radar stations, at the northwestern tip of the Reykjanes peninsula, sits the Suðurnes Science and Learning Centre. Much like the airport terminal a few kilometres from here, this spit of low-flung land is a place where many visitors to this […]

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laki eruption 1783
Features

The Ocean of Fire

In highly uncertain times, when hunger, illness, injury and death can strike at any moment, it is a very human trait to appeal to a higher power. Lutheran Reverend Jón Steingrímsson was not unusual in this regard when, in the beginning of June 1783, he began to see clear signs of what would become one […]

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westfjords iceland
Features

Making Merry

In centuries gone by, people would gather at one farm and whoever owned instruments would play them. There was no way to get home after dark, so dancing until the sun rose again was the only way to party. They still have dances in the countryside, but the true, original sveitaball (country ball) is a […]

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