Last Saturday night I went to Sirkus, translated Circus, which has been one of the trendiest music venues in Iceland for years. It is situated in one of the oldest houses downtown on Klapparstígur and while it may look like a sugar shack at first glance—a small wooden house built in the 19th century painted with palm trees, it has this unexplainable warmth when you enter the bar. I have arrived there bored to the back teeth with Reykjavík’s nightlife but have always found amusement, whether by the people, the crowds packed to the rafters or the music.

Sirkus is one of only two bars in Reykjavík that has some international fame to its name. It was featured in one of Björk’s videos directed by Spike Jonze, Gusgus featured it in their animated video to the song “Moss” and many foreign bands have played and found their watering hole there, including the White Stripes, members of Franz Ferdinand and Nick Cave and his entourage dropped by (although he allegedly only had club soda).

It will now be torn down because eager venture capitalists have bought the property and all of its neighboring houses to build a new shopping mall topped with private residences. As I have explained before in my recent Daily Lives it is both short-sighted and stupid to tear the old houses of central Reykjavík down to build concrete buildings that have no charm whatsoever. This is a planning disaster of the degree that fortunately has caught the minds of many of Reykjavík’s young and bright.

Last weekend hundreds of musicians performed in rebellion against these plans by organizing a music festival attended by at least 2,000 people. It was during this amazing festival that I once again dropped in to Sirkus. When I opened the door I only saw a wall of people. It was not very inviting at all. But the sweet tones of the band Hjaltalín, one of Reykjavík’s newest indie bands, lured me in. I managed to squeeze myself through the crowd and was welcomed by a smiling barmaid who whisked over a pint of beer. It was the first time I’d heard Hjaltalín and they sounded good. Then it was time for XXX Rottweiler to blast the crowd with their bitter rap tunes. I think they rapped about the stupidity of politicians who gamble with the future of downtown Reykjavík. Then Sigur Rós came on stage. They only played two or three songs but it was a wonderful performance.

The atmosphere that night filled me with optimism. I reveled in the thought that the young people of Reykjavík were at last standing up against the hard will of money and politics.

Many of the bands playing at the festival were of the generation that has been dubbed krúttkynslódin or “the cute generation” in English. Their regalia tend to be Icelandic wool sweaters and hats, and they have affinities for making music that is sweet and delicate. The band members of Sigur Rós have probably been the most important ambassadors of that generation with their love for traditional Icelandic food and free concerts around the country. The lyrics of these bands have not been political at all and some have claimed that they have nothing to say.

When I left Sirkus that night I wondered: Could it be that when the “krútt-generation” finally says NO everyone will listen because they have not revolted before? And that their soft message becomes the roar needed to change city politics in this town? Hell, I hope so.

The bands and musicians performing at the festival were:

1985!, Amiina, Ampop, Bardi Jóhannsson, Berglind Ágústsdóttir, Bob Justman, Benni Hemm Hemm, Bloodgroup, Bogomil Font, Borkó, Botnledja, Cocktail Vomit, Curver, Dr. Gunni, Flís, Ghostigital, Gusgus DJ-set, Hjaltalín, Hjálmar, Hudson Wayne, Jagúar, Jakobínarína, Jan Mayen, Kira Kira, K.K., Megas, Motion Boys, Mr. Silla & Mongoose, Mugison, Music Zoo, múm, My Summer as a Salvation Soldier, Orgelkvartettinn Ananas, Páll Óskar, Pétur Ben, Rass, Trabant Experience, Retro Stefson, Reykjavík!, Seabear, Singapore Sling, Sigur Rós, Skátar, Skakkamanage, Slowblow, Sometime, Sprengjuhollin, Valgeir Sigurðsson, XXX Rotweiler, Aela, Olvis.  

PS. Yesterday the executives of Iceland Airwaves festival, by far the most popular music festival in Iceland, issued a press release stating they regret the loss of Sirkus as one of the most important music venues in Reykjavík. They urge Reykjavík City, the Iceland Tourist Board, the Mayor of Reykjavík, the House Preservation Committee and the Minister of Education to preserve the venue.

BB – bjarni@icelandreview.com